Article
ATastyBellPepper
01-12
Thoughtfully designed plantings provide vital resources.
Choose Native Flowers
When selecting which plants to include, focus on species Indigenous to your bioregion that local pollinators have naturally evolved alongside for millennia. Research the blooming periods of different native wildflowers, trees, and shrubs to determine which provide copious nectar and pollen yield throughout the spring, summer, and fall seasons continuously. Rather than scattering individual specimens randomly, organize large groupings of the same flora clustered together to make foraging more energy-efficient for bees and butterflies scanning vast areas daily on foot or wing.
Include Varied Flower Types
Incorporate an assortment of flower shapes, sizes, vivid hues, and intoxicating scents to entice the diverse array of pollinators active in your ecosystem with complementary adaptations. While some butterfly and bee species capably pluck nectar from open-faced blooms, others have elongated mouths specially evolved for syphoning floral rewards from tubular corollas or spurs. Planting a wide spectrum of such floral features magnifies the garden's wildlife supporting impact.
Minimize Pesticides
Whenever practicable, forgo using synthetic pesticides and herbicides marketed as all-conquering solutions yet scientifically verified to gravely impair pollinator navigation, food locating, cognitive map reading, and immune system functioning. Explore alternative strategies that foster habitats where pollinators feel safe carrying out activities essential to healthy ecosystem function and food production. Make space for some minor plant imperfections, as perfection often comes at the cost of broader biodiversity and natural homeostasis.
Build Bee Condos
Provide nesting habitats by constructing small homes using locally sourced untreated wood, bamboo, or hollow plant stems. These multi-chambered “bee condos” should offer private brooding cells of varied sizes suitable for different solitary bee species. Attach condos to southern-facing walls under an overhang, securing them up high out of reach of predators. Consider placing multiple condos around the yard to accommodate larger bee populations. Check materials thoroughly for any existing insect inhabitants before installation. Leave existing snags or holes in trees and walls undisturbed if already occupied. Monitor condos to ensure safe, dry inner environments throughout seasonal temperature fluctuations critical for egg incubation and larval development over winter dormancy.
Plant in Succession
Stagger plantings of perennials, bushes, vines, and trees to provide an uninterrupted supply of forage from early spring bloomers through to late summer and fall flowers. Track the blooming periods of selected species to construct a chart ensuring nourishment is reliably available when pollinators and caterpillars need it most. Factor in which specific host plants various butterfly larvae feed on as caterpillars before creating their chrysalises. Maintain habitats where butterflies can lay eggs close to larval food sources and complete their entire lifecycles without barriers. Replenish water sources as flowers cycle through to keep hardworking pollinators continuously hydrated.
Conclusion
By consciously selecting native flora beneficial to the lifecycles of pollinators indigenous to the bioregion, vibrant ecosystems supported by mutualisms between numerous species can persist bountifully for future generations. Thoughtful land stewardship upholding biodiversity repays pollinators' inestimable contributions to natural balance and approximately one-third of food crops through environmental nurturing. Sustaining nature's delicate interdependencies ultimately sustains humanity - a reciprocal relationship cultivated most effectively through compassionate wildlife habitat preservation and restoration.
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Article
格桑花
2023-10-29
Introduction to the Amazon Rainforest
The Amazon rainforest, spanning over nine countries in South America, stands as the world's largest tropical rainforest. Home to a staggering 10% of the known species on Earth and the Amazon River, this vibrant ecosystem pulsates with life and mysteries. Exploring it promises an adventure of a lifetime, but it requires preparation and respect for its profound natural and cultural significance.
Best Time to Visit
Generally, the Amazon has two main seasons: the wet and the dry. The wet season, from December to May, provides a unique opportunity to navigate deeper into the forest via boat. Conversely, the dry season, from June to November, is ideal for trekking and wildlife spotting. However, each season has its charm, and the rainforest remains a year-round destination.
Essential Packing List
Given the Amazon's unique environment, packing right is crucial. Lightweight, long-sleeved clothing is recommended to protect against insects and sun. Waterproof gear, including jackets and footwear, is essential, as are insect repellent, sunblock, a wide-brimmed hat, and a reusable water bottle. Don't forget a good-quality camera and binoculars for wildlife viewing!
Guided Tours vs. Independent Exploration
For first-timers, guided tours are the safest and most informative way to delve into the rainforest. Experienced guides offer valuable insights into the complex ecosystem and help navigate the vast terrain. Independent exploration is only recommended for seasoned adventurers familiar with the Amazon's challenges.
Wildlife Spotting
The Amazon teems with life. From jaguars, caimans, and tapirs to the countless species of birds, insects, and amphibians, there's always something to observe. Dawn and dusk are prime wildlife-spotting times. Patience and silence are key, as many animals can be elusive.
Engaging with Indigenous Communities
The Amazon isn't just about wildlife; it's also home to many indigenous communities. Engaging with them provides a rich cultural layer to your adventure. Many tours include visits to local villages, allowing you to learn about their traditions, crafts, and relationship with the forest.
Environmental and Cultural Sensitivity
Respect for the rainforest and its inhabitants is paramount. Stick to marked trails to minimize your environmental footprint, and avoid interacting with or feeding wildlife. When visiting indigenous communities, be respectful, ask for permission before taking photographs, and consider purchasing local crafts to support the community.
Tips for Staying Safe
Safety is crucial when navigating such a vast and wild environment. Stay hydrated, avoid swimming in unknown waters due to potential risks like piranhas and caimans, and always inform someone about your whereabouts. Be wary of insects, as some, like mosquitoes, can transmit diseases.
Concluding Thoughts
The Amazon rainforest is a treasure trove of biodiversity and cultures. While it promises an unforgettable adventure, it's essential to approach the journey with preparation, respect, and a sense of wonder. By doing so, you'll not only have a transformative experience but also contribute to the preservation and appreciation of this vital ecosystem.
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Article
atastybellpepper
2022-07-04
The genus Quercus has over 500 species worldwide, 58 of which are indigenous to North America, including the shingle oak. One of the most common tree species on the continent, Quercus alba, or the white oak, is found throughout the woods of Eastern North America.
It's important to keep in mind that oaks are some of the most important natural trees we can plant, even though they won't let you down as a design element. Numerous animal species find a home and food in the white oak. The ideal tree to plant to attract butterflies is the white oak. It sustains an absurd 934 different species of caterpillars throughout the country! Planting white oaks will guarantee that pollinators are supported and that birds are attracted.
The tree is a lovely and important addition to a landscape if there is space for it because of its aesthetic value and function in the neighborhood ecology.
Care of White Oak Trees
Given its lifespan and girth, it is clear why the white oak is regarded as a representation of strength and tenacity. The white oak, which is cultivated in woods and other natural settings, is much more disease-resistant than its red oak relatives. However, compared to a red oak, it is more prone to rot when planted in a yard. The planning and location of your tree are the main issues.
The white oak may grow to epic proportions, particularly if given the room to stretch out a little, therefore when intending to plant one, you should also consider why not plant it. The spread of a white oak when it is planted in the open may be as large as its height. A different species is a better option for your landscape design if space is at a premium. Even if there is plenty of space, you should think about what will be in the vicinity and surrounding the tree, as well as if its eventual size will interfere with any future ideas you may have for its place.
Once a white oak tree is established, taking care of it the rest of the way is simple if you have the room and the time.
Light
A tree that does well in direct sunlight is the white oak. Partial shade may be tolerated by younger trees, but as the trees become older, it will become more difficult for them to bear shadow. Planting trees in full light will result in a definite change. In addition to full sun for tree health, you should make sure it's full sun to obtain the most vibrant autumn foliage.
White oak requires deep, wet, acidic to neutral soil that drains well. Alkaline soils or shallow soils are not acceptable to it.
Water
White oak trees that have just been planted need to have frequent watering the first season to become established. Instead of fast daily watering, infrequent thorough soaking is the desired outcome. (Consider a wet day in contrast to a brief storm.) By keeping the area wet and decreasing competition with grass and other plants, mulching under the tree's canopy will aid in its establishment and success in its new environment.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
The white oak can survive in a variety of climates, from a very chilly Minnesota winter to a reasonably warm Florida winter. The ideal temperature range for white oaks is 55 degrees Fahrenheit on average. USDA Zones 3-9 are ideal for the tree's growth. Compared to many other Northern species, the white oak is more tolerant to greater temperatures. The white oak will endure, whereas other local species are likely to suffer from regional temperature change.
Fertilizer
White oaks do not need additional fertilizer, but if the tree is not growing, evaluating the soil and correcting it may rule out soil deficiencies. While it's crucial to wait for test results, it's typically recommended for oak trees to use fertilizer with a low nitrogen concentration to prevent poor branch development.
Pruning
White oaks are renowned for their usage in allées and make excellent street trees (an alley in a formal garden or park). It will need some training and structural trimming on the tree's allée side to create a passageway when establishing an oak allée or planting on the street. If your tree will just provide shade, you should consider structural trimming. There may also be occasions when you merely need to remove the dead wood off the tree.
The oak will grow into a straight tree with a single trunk and sturdy branches if some simple structural trimming is done in its early years (but not in its first). The best time to do this procedure is in the late winter, when the tree is dormant. To complete this task, cut the branch using pruning shears if it is less than 1/2 inch thick, loppers if it is between 1/2 and 2 inches thick, and a pruning saw if it is between 2 and 5 inches thick. Simply cut branches that grow inward or form a deep "V" shape using the appropriate instrument. Your objective is to make a straight tree with a high canopy that is tall.
It is safer to hire a qualified arborist or authorized tree service to trim the tree as it ages and needs ladders and chain saws to make larger cuts.
It's important to keep in mind that oaks are some of the most important natural trees we can plant, even though they won't let you down as a design element. Numerous animal species find a home and food in the white oak. The ideal tree to plant to attract butterflies is the white oak. It sustains an absurd 934 different species of caterpillars throughout the country! Planting white oaks will guarantee that pollinators are supported and that birds are attracted.
The tree is a lovely and important addition to a landscape if there is space for it because of its aesthetic value and function in the neighborhood ecology.
Care of White Oak Trees
Given its lifespan and girth, it is clear why the white oak is regarded as a representation of strength and tenacity. The white oak, which is cultivated in woods and other natural settings, is much more disease-resistant than its red oak relatives. However, compared to a red oak, it is more prone to rot when planted in a yard. The planning and location of your tree are the main issues.
The white oak may grow to epic proportions, particularly if given the room to stretch out a little, therefore when intending to plant one, you should also consider why not plant it. The spread of a white oak when it is planted in the open may be as large as its height. A different species is a better option for your landscape design if space is at a premium. Even if there is plenty of space, you should think about what will be in the vicinity and surrounding the tree, as well as if its eventual size will interfere with any future ideas you may have for its place.
Once a white oak tree is established, taking care of it the rest of the way is simple if you have the room and the time.
Light
A tree that does well in direct sunlight is the white oak. Partial shade may be tolerated by younger trees, but as the trees become older, it will become more difficult for them to bear shadow. Planting trees in full light will result in a definite change. In addition to full sun for tree health, you should make sure it's full sun to obtain the most vibrant autumn foliage.
White oak requires deep, wet, acidic to neutral soil that drains well. Alkaline soils or shallow soils are not acceptable to it.
Water
White oak trees that have just been planted need to have frequent watering the first season to become established. Instead of fast daily watering, infrequent thorough soaking is the desired outcome. (Consider a wet day in contrast to a brief storm.) By keeping the area wet and decreasing competition with grass and other plants, mulching under the tree's canopy will aid in its establishment and success in its new environment.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
The white oak can survive in a variety of climates, from a very chilly Minnesota winter to a reasonably warm Florida winter. The ideal temperature range for white oaks is 55 degrees Fahrenheit on average. USDA Zones 3-9 are ideal for the tree's growth. Compared to many other Northern species, the white oak is more tolerant to greater temperatures. The white oak will endure, whereas other local species are likely to suffer from regional temperature change.
Fertilizer
White oaks do not need additional fertilizer, but if the tree is not growing, evaluating the soil and correcting it may rule out soil deficiencies. While it's crucial to wait for test results, it's typically recommended for oak trees to use fertilizer with a low nitrogen concentration to prevent poor branch development.
Pruning
White oaks are renowned for their usage in allées and make excellent street trees (an alley in a formal garden or park). It will need some training and structural trimming on the tree's allée side to create a passageway when establishing an oak allée or planting on the street. If your tree will just provide shade, you should consider structural trimming. There may also be occasions when you merely need to remove the dead wood off the tree.
The oak will grow into a straight tree with a single trunk and sturdy branches if some simple structural trimming is done in its early years (but not in its first). The best time to do this procedure is in the late winter, when the tree is dormant. To complete this task, cut the branch using pruning shears if it is less than 1/2 inch thick, loppers if it is between 1/2 and 2 inches thick, and a pruning saw if it is between 2 and 5 inches thick. Simply cut branches that grow inward or form a deep "V" shape using the appropriate instrument. Your objective is to make a straight tree with a high canopy that is tall.
It is safer to hire a qualified arborist or authorized tree service to trim the tree as it ages and needs ladders and chain saws to make larger cuts.
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Article
atastybellpepper
2022-07-04
Tree ivy (Fatshedera lizei) is a rare hybrid of two species from separate genera: Hedera helix and Fatsia japonica (glossy-leaved paper plant) (English ivy). The resultant hybrid features five-lobed English ivy leaves and the shrub-like form of a glossy-leaved paper plant. It has glossy, dark green evergreen leaves that may range in size from 4 to 10 inches. The perennial plant naturally forms a mound and has trailing branches, but it may be coaxed to grow into a tighter shrub shape by trimming. Although this plant is grown primarily for its foliage, it does produce tiny cream flowers in clusters in the fall. Tree ivy grows slowly, and the spring is the optimum season to plant it.
Care for Tree Ivy
Make careful to leave a minimum of 3 to 6 feet between each plant when you plant tree ivy outdoors. Choose a container with enough drainage holes for container development that is only slightly bigger than the root ball. If you want the plant to grow more like a vine, you will need to stake it or connect it to another kind of support, such a trellis, since it lacks the clinging capacity of genuine ivy. Alternately, you may just let it spread out as a ground cover.
Plan to routinely water, feed, and trim your tree ivy to keep it in the ideal form and size. Usually, the plant doesn't have any major insect or disease problems. Watch out for several common plant pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. 1 Make careful to look for evidence of the tiny insects on the undersides of leaves and to treat any infestations as soon as possible.
Light Dappled light is ideal for tree ivy growth. However, too little light may cause lanky, fragile stems and tiny, dull leaves. A location adjacent to a light window that is out of the direct sun is great for indoor growing.
The ideal soil for this plant is rich, loamy, with a pH range of slightly acidic to neutral and excellent drainage. For container growth, a light, all-purpose potting mix is acceptable.
Water
Even soil moisture is ideal for tree ivy, but persistently wet soil may damage the plant's roots.
1 When the soil starts to feel a little bit dry throughout the growth season (spring to autumn), water. Reduce watering throughout the winter months when the plant has gone dormant in order to keep the soil from entirely drying up. Leaf drop and yellowing of the leaves are two possible symptoms of overwatering in tree ivy.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
The ideal temperature range for tree ivy to flourish is between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer locations, it's crucial to provide a tree ivy plant shade and enough water since excessive heat may lead to leaf drop and eventually kill the plant. Although the plant may tolerate some cold, it can die back at temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. 1 When warm weather returns, the plant may still reappear from its roots if the temperature doesn't drop too much.
Additionally, tree ivy prefers a moderate to high humidity level. To increase the humidity surrounding a container plant, set it on a tray with water and stones. The plant might benefit from regular spraying to help increase the humidity to its preferred level. When exposed to dry air for an extended period of time, tree ivy plants' leaves might become brown and fall off.
Fertilizer
Tree ivy may feed from moderately to heavily. Feed your plant with a houseplant fertilizer throughout the growth season, as directed on the package. In the winter, fertilizer is not required.
Tree ivy may be lightly pruned at any time to shape it anyway you choose. And if it isn't pruned, it may begin to seem unkempt. Pinch off new growth on the stems to encourage the bushier growth habit that many gardeners like, particularly for houseplants. More branches will result as a result.
Developing Tree Ivy
Tree ivy plants are sterile, hence it is impossible to cultivate it from seed. However, stem cuttings are a rather simple method of propagation. Just cut off a section of the stem that is about 6 inches long. After removing the lower half's leaves and injecting rooting hormone into the cut end, place the plant in a soilless potting mixture. Keep the growth medium wet and the cutting in a warm area with indirect light (but not soggy). As soon as you can gently pull on the stem and experience resistance, you'll know it has established roots.
Variety of Tree Ivy
Tree ivy comes in a number of kinds with different leaf shapes and sizes:
A 6-foot-tall cultivar of Fatshedera lizei called "Variegata" has leaves with cream-colored borders.
The leaves of x Fatshedera lizei 'Curly' are unusually curled.
A shorter (4-foot) variation of x Fatshedera lizei called "Ribbon Candy" has wavy leaves that have a pale green tint. It grows well as a shrubby plant. The 8-foot-tall form of Fatshedera lizei known as "Annemieke" has large leaves with yellow patterns.
Care for Tree Ivy
Make careful to leave a minimum of 3 to 6 feet between each plant when you plant tree ivy outdoors. Choose a container with enough drainage holes for container development that is only slightly bigger than the root ball. If you want the plant to grow more like a vine, you will need to stake it or connect it to another kind of support, such a trellis, since it lacks the clinging capacity of genuine ivy. Alternately, you may just let it spread out as a ground cover.
Plan to routinely water, feed, and trim your tree ivy to keep it in the ideal form and size. Usually, the plant doesn't have any major insect or disease problems. Watch out for several common plant pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. 1 Make careful to look for evidence of the tiny insects on the undersides of leaves and to treat any infestations as soon as possible.
Light Dappled light is ideal for tree ivy growth. However, too little light may cause lanky, fragile stems and tiny, dull leaves. A location adjacent to a light window that is out of the direct sun is great for indoor growing.
The ideal soil for this plant is rich, loamy, with a pH range of slightly acidic to neutral and excellent drainage. For container growth, a light, all-purpose potting mix is acceptable.
Water
Even soil moisture is ideal for tree ivy, but persistently wet soil may damage the plant's roots.
1 When the soil starts to feel a little bit dry throughout the growth season (spring to autumn), water. Reduce watering throughout the winter months when the plant has gone dormant in order to keep the soil from entirely drying up. Leaf drop and yellowing of the leaves are two possible symptoms of overwatering in tree ivy.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
The ideal temperature range for tree ivy to flourish is between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer locations, it's crucial to provide a tree ivy plant shade and enough water since excessive heat may lead to leaf drop and eventually kill the plant. Although the plant may tolerate some cold, it can die back at temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. 1 When warm weather returns, the plant may still reappear from its roots if the temperature doesn't drop too much.
Additionally, tree ivy prefers a moderate to high humidity level. To increase the humidity surrounding a container plant, set it on a tray with water and stones. The plant might benefit from regular spraying to help increase the humidity to its preferred level. When exposed to dry air for an extended period of time, tree ivy plants' leaves might become brown and fall off.
Fertilizer
Tree ivy may feed from moderately to heavily. Feed your plant with a houseplant fertilizer throughout the growth season, as directed on the package. In the winter, fertilizer is not required.
Tree ivy may be lightly pruned at any time to shape it anyway you choose. And if it isn't pruned, it may begin to seem unkempt. Pinch off new growth on the stems to encourage the bushier growth habit that many gardeners like, particularly for houseplants. More branches will result as a result.
Developing Tree Ivy
Tree ivy plants are sterile, hence it is impossible to cultivate it from seed. However, stem cuttings are a rather simple method of propagation. Just cut off a section of the stem that is about 6 inches long. After removing the lower half's leaves and injecting rooting hormone into the cut end, place the plant in a soilless potting mixture. Keep the growth medium wet and the cutting in a warm area with indirect light (but not soggy). As soon as you can gently pull on the stem and experience resistance, you'll know it has established roots.
Variety of Tree Ivy
Tree ivy comes in a number of kinds with different leaf shapes and sizes:
A 6-foot-tall cultivar of Fatshedera lizei called "Variegata" has leaves with cream-colored borders.
The leaves of x Fatshedera lizei 'Curly' are unusually curled.
A shorter (4-foot) variation of x Fatshedera lizei called "Ribbon Candy" has wavy leaves that have a pale green tint. It grows well as a shrubby plant. The 8-foot-tall form of Fatshedera lizei known as "Annemieke" has large leaves with yellow patterns.
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Article
atastybellpepper
2022-07-04
Few plants have a longer history of culture or play a more significant part in decorative gardening than peonies, and among the several species that make up the Paeonia genus, the Chinese peony (P. lactiflora), commonly known as the common garden peony, is undoubtedly the most well-known and significant. Large, full blossoms on these clump-forming perennial shrubs occur in late spring and early summer.
Peonies are often planted as mature nursery plants in pots in the spring, but bare-root plants, which are frequently purchased from internet merchants, are usually planted in the autumn. The Chinese peony is a slow-growing plant that may take up to three years to reach blooming maturity, but your perseverance will be rewarded with a plant that can live for a very long time. Peonies have a very long lifespan—they may live for up to 100 years.
Pets that consume the poisonous compound paeonol found in peonies may have digestive problems. The peony is not among the plants that are harmful to people.
Care for Chinese Peonies
Peonies are seldom utilized as garden plants south of USDA zone 7 because they need winters that are cold enough to cause plant dormancy. However, since several species can withstand temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit, they are highly appreciated in most northern regions.
Peonies should be planted with 3 to 4 feet between plants to provide for adequate air circulation and wide spacing, since overcrowding stimulates the development of diseases. Avoid placing them near other huge plants that could compete with them for resources. Chinese peony should be planted such that the root crown is relatively near to the surface—no more than 2 inches deep—because they need a winter cold to develop bloom buds. Make careful not to bury the crown of a specimen that was cultivated in a nursery even deeper when planting it.
Peonies' huge, heavy bloom heads have a tendency to topple over, particularly after rain. Use wooden or light metal pegs and twine to create your own support if you don't want to spend the money on specific peony rings.
The only other routine care that peonies need is a thorough autumn cleansing and the removal of the leaf. Remove any unhealthy leaves throughout the growth season for a neater look and to stop the spread of illness.
Light
Garden peonies need full sun for at least six hours each day in order to bloom at their best. Only in warmer areas may you put them partially in the shade to shield them from the noon sun.
Soil
As long as the soil is healthy and well-drained, peonies may thrive in a wide range of soil types. Avoid standing water in rainy areas. Add organic materials but not manure if the soil is sandy or heavily clayed as this might promote the botrytis disease. Make careful to thoroughly incorporate amendments into the soil before applying them. Although they may tolerate slight acidity, peonies prefer a soil pH that is approximately neutral.
Chinese peony often don't need additional irrigation in areas with consistent rainfall. The spring and autumn are when they need the most water, so if those seasons are dry, be sure to water them gently and thoroughly as required to maintain the soil equally wet. The typical amount of water is 1 inch per week, obtained by a mix of irrigation and rainfall.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Many types of peonies can withstand temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Peonies are perennials for chilly locations. To fully induce the hibernation that resets the growing buds, they need winter cold. Zones 3 through 7 are ideal for Chinese peony, although zone 8's northern half may also sustain them.
Strong heat and humidity, particularly during the blooming time, are not good for Chinese peony. Picking kinds that bloom early, before the start of the summer heat, is one solution for areas with hot, muggy summers.
Fertilizer
Unless the soil is deficient in nutrients, Chinese peony often do not need fertilizer. Apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as bulb fertilizer, along the dripline of the plants in poor soil or if they are not blooming enough after the bloom season.
However, it's best to wait to feed peony until there is clear indication that they require it, such as when plants fail to bloom despite ideal environmental circumstances.
Chinese peony varieties
There are many hundreds of varieties of Chinese peony, as well as P. lactflora x hybrids, which have been grown for decades. These are a few of the most well-known Chinese peony cultivars out of the many thousands there are:
The fragrant late-season blooming Paeonia lactiflora 'Sarah Bernardt' has double, rose-pink blooms.
P. lactiflora 'Karl Rosenfield' is a mid-season blooming with double blooms that is scarlet in color.
P. lactiflora 'Shirley Temple' has double, light-rose blooms that progressively become ivory and is a fragrant early bloomer.
P. lactiflora 'Bowl of Beauty' has solitary pink flowers with frilly off-white to yellow centers and blooms in the early part of the season.
P. lactiflora 'Kansas' has brilliant pink-red double blooms that bloom early to midseason.
P. lactiflora 'Festiva Maxima' is an early-season blooming with double white blooms that has a strong fragrance.
There are six different sorts of Chinese peony blooms to pick from, ranging from straightforward single-petal blossoms to very large and hefty double-flowered varieties. While semi-double, double, and bomb forms have more larger, heavier flowers that are sometimes prone to collapsing stems, particularly after a downpour, anemone, single, and Japanese types have comparatively open, lightweight blooms.
Additional Peony Varieties
There are many more significant groups of popular garden plants, other from Chinese peony, which include the several hundred varieties of P. lactiflora:
The term "tree peonies" refers to a small number of Paeonia species, particularly Paeonia suffruticosa, which are woody bushes with blooms that are larger than those of Chinese peonies but more open. The blooms are less likely to fall over since the plant stems are so strong. Zones 4 to 8 are suitable for tree peony. However, these plants are rather pricey.
Itoh peonies, also known as intersectional peonies, are a kind of hybrid peonies that were created by mating a species of tree peony (P. lemoinei) with a Chinese peony (P. lactiflora). They thus have tree peonies' enormous, spectacular blooms on bushes that more closely resemble Chinese peonies.
Finally, Paeonia tenuifolia and a few cultivars belong to a considerably smaller subgroup of peonies known as fern-leaved varieties. Unlike other varieties of peonies, these tiny plants feature dark crimson blooms and lovely fern-like leaves.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers is advised to maintain the plants looking lovely and to stop the spread of fungus infections. Trim the flower stems so that they end just above a sturdy leaf.
Cut the whole plant back to just above ground level in the autumn. To get rid of fungus spores that can re-infect the plant in the spring, remove and destroy the waste.
Growing Chinese Peonies
The best way to propagate peonies is to separate the clumps of rhizomatous roots by digging them up, although this may be a challenging process. This is how you do it:
The plant should be gently dug out after having its stalks pruned down to a few inches above ground level in the autumn.
The root ball may be divided into parts with three to five growth eyes at the top using a sharp knife.
Replant the fragments where you want them, being careful to bury the growth eyes no deeper than 2 inches. A plant that is planted too deeply won't receive the necessary winter cold, which might affect blooming.
Be patient; it might take a root division three years or more to grow into a blooming plant.
Developing Chinese Peonies From Seed
Peonies are almost always hybrid plants; they don't "come true" from seeds saved from flower heads. The development of seedlings into adult blooming plants might take several years, even if you get your seeds from a reliable commercial source. Since of this, amateurs seldom spread seeds because they believe vegetative methods of propagation to be more simpler.
Chinese peony repotting and potting
When grown in pots, Chinese peony often collapse over due to their height and top weight. Pick patio peonies or miniature hybrids if you wish to cultivate them in this manner.
Overwintering
Giving Chinese peony too much winter protection is a terrible idea since plants depend on a harsh winter frost to reset the blossoming buds. With the best of intentions, gardeners may be startled by plants that won't bloom the following year after they've been covered in mulch throughout the winter.
To avoid fungal spores overwintering and reinfecting plants the following spring, it is best to trim the plants to just above ground level and remove any debris from the area surrounding the peonies before the snow falls.
Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses
Botrytis blight and other fungal diseases are the most frequent ailments affecting Chinese peony, and they may be particularly bothersome in rainy, chilly spring weather. To stop the illness from spreading, remove any leaves or stems that are sick, discolored, or wilted as away. Cut the herbaceous stems to a few inches long and throw them in the trash in the autumn. A weekly application of a fungicide early in the growing season, if you discover that your peonies are prone to fungal disease, may stop illnesses from becoming worse.
A white coating known as mildew, which is a kind of fungus, may be seen on leaves and stems mostly during the hot, humid summer months. It just looks bad and has no negative effects on the plants. A thorough autumn clean-up here also aids in preventing the plants from contracting the infection the following year.
Although peonies may be vulnerable to thrips, scale, mealybugs, bulb mites, and beetles, all of which can be treated with neem oil or organic pesticides based on pyrethrin, peonies are often free of major pest issues. Because of the nectar in the blooms, the ants that often cover peony blossoms are completely harmless.
Methods for Making Chinese Peonies Bloom
Mature peonies often are fairly eager to bloom profusely if given ample light exposure. Don't be disheartened if a bare-root planting or split peony doesn't blossom in its first few years; young plants may take around three years to bloom.
If a peony is planted too deeply, its growth eyes may not experience enough winter cold and so may not bloom. To put the plant deeper, try digging up the ground a little bit first. Finally, a fall application of bulb fertilizer may shock the plant into producing better blooms the following spring if the soil is inadequate. However, be cautious not to overfeed as this may also prevent blooms from occurring.
A plant that has been overharvested for cut flowers may also react the following year by producing fewer blooms. Never take more than one-third of the flowers for cut arrangements in order to guarantee a decent yearly show.
Typical Chinese Peony Issues
With this mainly trouble-free plant, there are just a few widespread concerns.
Overturned flower stems
The horticulture industry's achievement in creating plants with enormous double-petaled blooms has been detrimental to peonies. Large flowers on several types sometimes topple over from their own weight, particularly after a rainstorm has saturated the petals. The solution: Use gridded plant supports that provide flower stems that emerge through the grid holes reinforcement. Alternately, grow plants with single or petal-like anemone flower variations.
Plant Becomes Mushy and Crumbles
This is the typical symptom of deadly fungal illnesses like botrytis. It's probably too late to rescue the plant by the time such symptoms appear; you'll need to pull it up and kill it. Early use of fungicides may help avert tragedy if you discover that peonies in your garden are vulnerable to these illnesses.
Ants Have Covered the Flowers.
Not to worry. This is totally natural since ants are attracted to the fragrant blooms and their tasty nectar. Before bringing cut flowers inside for floral arrangements, ants may be simply swept away since they do not harm the blooms.
Peonies are often planted as mature nursery plants in pots in the spring, but bare-root plants, which are frequently purchased from internet merchants, are usually planted in the autumn. The Chinese peony is a slow-growing plant that may take up to three years to reach blooming maturity, but your perseverance will be rewarded with a plant that can live for a very long time. Peonies have a very long lifespan—they may live for up to 100 years.
Pets that consume the poisonous compound paeonol found in peonies may have digestive problems. The peony is not among the plants that are harmful to people.
Care for Chinese Peonies
Peonies are seldom utilized as garden plants south of USDA zone 7 because they need winters that are cold enough to cause plant dormancy. However, since several species can withstand temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit, they are highly appreciated in most northern regions.
Peonies should be planted with 3 to 4 feet between plants to provide for adequate air circulation and wide spacing, since overcrowding stimulates the development of diseases. Avoid placing them near other huge plants that could compete with them for resources. Chinese peony should be planted such that the root crown is relatively near to the surface—no more than 2 inches deep—because they need a winter cold to develop bloom buds. Make careful not to bury the crown of a specimen that was cultivated in a nursery even deeper when planting it.
Peonies' huge, heavy bloom heads have a tendency to topple over, particularly after rain. Use wooden or light metal pegs and twine to create your own support if you don't want to spend the money on specific peony rings.
The only other routine care that peonies need is a thorough autumn cleansing and the removal of the leaf. Remove any unhealthy leaves throughout the growth season for a neater look and to stop the spread of illness.
Light
Garden peonies need full sun for at least six hours each day in order to bloom at their best. Only in warmer areas may you put them partially in the shade to shield them from the noon sun.
Soil
As long as the soil is healthy and well-drained, peonies may thrive in a wide range of soil types. Avoid standing water in rainy areas. Add organic materials but not manure if the soil is sandy or heavily clayed as this might promote the botrytis disease. Make careful to thoroughly incorporate amendments into the soil before applying them. Although they may tolerate slight acidity, peonies prefer a soil pH that is approximately neutral.
Chinese peony often don't need additional irrigation in areas with consistent rainfall. The spring and autumn are when they need the most water, so if those seasons are dry, be sure to water them gently and thoroughly as required to maintain the soil equally wet. The typical amount of water is 1 inch per week, obtained by a mix of irrigation and rainfall.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Many types of peonies can withstand temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Peonies are perennials for chilly locations. To fully induce the hibernation that resets the growing buds, they need winter cold. Zones 3 through 7 are ideal for Chinese peony, although zone 8's northern half may also sustain them.
Strong heat and humidity, particularly during the blooming time, are not good for Chinese peony. Picking kinds that bloom early, before the start of the summer heat, is one solution for areas with hot, muggy summers.
Fertilizer
Unless the soil is deficient in nutrients, Chinese peony often do not need fertilizer. Apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as bulb fertilizer, along the dripline of the plants in poor soil or if they are not blooming enough after the bloom season.
However, it's best to wait to feed peony until there is clear indication that they require it, such as when plants fail to bloom despite ideal environmental circumstances.
Chinese peony varieties
There are many hundreds of varieties of Chinese peony, as well as P. lactflora x hybrids, which have been grown for decades. These are a few of the most well-known Chinese peony cultivars out of the many thousands there are:
The fragrant late-season blooming Paeonia lactiflora 'Sarah Bernardt' has double, rose-pink blooms.
P. lactiflora 'Karl Rosenfield' is a mid-season blooming with double blooms that is scarlet in color.
P. lactiflora 'Shirley Temple' has double, light-rose blooms that progressively become ivory and is a fragrant early bloomer.
P. lactiflora 'Bowl of Beauty' has solitary pink flowers with frilly off-white to yellow centers and blooms in the early part of the season.
P. lactiflora 'Kansas' has brilliant pink-red double blooms that bloom early to midseason.
P. lactiflora 'Festiva Maxima' is an early-season blooming with double white blooms that has a strong fragrance.
There are six different sorts of Chinese peony blooms to pick from, ranging from straightforward single-petal blossoms to very large and hefty double-flowered varieties. While semi-double, double, and bomb forms have more larger, heavier flowers that are sometimes prone to collapsing stems, particularly after a downpour, anemone, single, and Japanese types have comparatively open, lightweight blooms.
Additional Peony Varieties
There are many more significant groups of popular garden plants, other from Chinese peony, which include the several hundred varieties of P. lactiflora:
The term "tree peonies" refers to a small number of Paeonia species, particularly Paeonia suffruticosa, which are woody bushes with blooms that are larger than those of Chinese peonies but more open. The blooms are less likely to fall over since the plant stems are so strong. Zones 4 to 8 are suitable for tree peony. However, these plants are rather pricey.
Itoh peonies, also known as intersectional peonies, are a kind of hybrid peonies that were created by mating a species of tree peony (P. lemoinei) with a Chinese peony (P. lactiflora). They thus have tree peonies' enormous, spectacular blooms on bushes that more closely resemble Chinese peonies.
Finally, Paeonia tenuifolia and a few cultivars belong to a considerably smaller subgroup of peonies known as fern-leaved varieties. Unlike other varieties of peonies, these tiny plants feature dark crimson blooms and lovely fern-like leaves.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers is advised to maintain the plants looking lovely and to stop the spread of fungus infections. Trim the flower stems so that they end just above a sturdy leaf.
Cut the whole plant back to just above ground level in the autumn. To get rid of fungus spores that can re-infect the plant in the spring, remove and destroy the waste.
Growing Chinese Peonies
The best way to propagate peonies is to separate the clumps of rhizomatous roots by digging them up, although this may be a challenging process. This is how you do it:
The plant should be gently dug out after having its stalks pruned down to a few inches above ground level in the autumn.
The root ball may be divided into parts with three to five growth eyes at the top using a sharp knife.
Replant the fragments where you want them, being careful to bury the growth eyes no deeper than 2 inches. A plant that is planted too deeply won't receive the necessary winter cold, which might affect blooming.
Be patient; it might take a root division three years or more to grow into a blooming plant.
Developing Chinese Peonies From Seed
Peonies are almost always hybrid plants; they don't "come true" from seeds saved from flower heads. The development of seedlings into adult blooming plants might take several years, even if you get your seeds from a reliable commercial source. Since of this, amateurs seldom spread seeds because they believe vegetative methods of propagation to be more simpler.
Chinese peony repotting and potting
When grown in pots, Chinese peony often collapse over due to their height and top weight. Pick patio peonies or miniature hybrids if you wish to cultivate them in this manner.
Overwintering
Giving Chinese peony too much winter protection is a terrible idea since plants depend on a harsh winter frost to reset the blossoming buds. With the best of intentions, gardeners may be startled by plants that won't bloom the following year after they've been covered in mulch throughout the winter.
To avoid fungal spores overwintering and reinfecting plants the following spring, it is best to trim the plants to just above ground level and remove any debris from the area surrounding the peonies before the snow falls.
Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses
Botrytis blight and other fungal diseases are the most frequent ailments affecting Chinese peony, and they may be particularly bothersome in rainy, chilly spring weather. To stop the illness from spreading, remove any leaves or stems that are sick, discolored, or wilted as away. Cut the herbaceous stems to a few inches long and throw them in the trash in the autumn. A weekly application of a fungicide early in the growing season, if you discover that your peonies are prone to fungal disease, may stop illnesses from becoming worse.
A white coating known as mildew, which is a kind of fungus, may be seen on leaves and stems mostly during the hot, humid summer months. It just looks bad and has no negative effects on the plants. A thorough autumn clean-up here also aids in preventing the plants from contracting the infection the following year.
Although peonies may be vulnerable to thrips, scale, mealybugs, bulb mites, and beetles, all of which can be treated with neem oil or organic pesticides based on pyrethrin, peonies are often free of major pest issues. Because of the nectar in the blooms, the ants that often cover peony blossoms are completely harmless.
Methods for Making Chinese Peonies Bloom
Mature peonies often are fairly eager to bloom profusely if given ample light exposure. Don't be disheartened if a bare-root planting or split peony doesn't blossom in its first few years; young plants may take around three years to bloom.
If a peony is planted too deeply, its growth eyes may not experience enough winter cold and so may not bloom. To put the plant deeper, try digging up the ground a little bit first. Finally, a fall application of bulb fertilizer may shock the plant into producing better blooms the following spring if the soil is inadequate. However, be cautious not to overfeed as this may also prevent blooms from occurring.
A plant that has been overharvested for cut flowers may also react the following year by producing fewer blooms. Never take more than one-third of the flowers for cut arrangements in order to guarantee a decent yearly show.
Typical Chinese Peony Issues
With this mainly trouble-free plant, there are just a few widespread concerns.
Overturned flower stems
The horticulture industry's achievement in creating plants with enormous double-petaled blooms has been detrimental to peonies. Large flowers on several types sometimes topple over from their own weight, particularly after a rainstorm has saturated the petals. The solution: Use gridded plant supports that provide flower stems that emerge through the grid holes reinforcement. Alternately, grow plants with single or petal-like anemone flower variations.
Plant Becomes Mushy and Crumbles
This is the typical symptom of deadly fungal illnesses like botrytis. It's probably too late to rescue the plant by the time such symptoms appear; you'll need to pull it up and kill it. Early use of fungicides may help avert tragedy if you discover that peonies in your garden are vulnerable to these illnesses.
Ants Have Covered the Flowers.
Not to worry. This is totally natural since ants are attracted to the fragrant blooms and their tasty nectar. Before bringing cut flowers inside for floral arrangements, ants may be simply swept away since they do not harm the blooms.
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Article
atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
The edible cabbages and kales, the near cousins of ornamental cabbage and kale, are remarkably similar to them in appearance and growth. These beautiful cultivars of the same species (Brassica oleracea) as the eating variety have been developed for aesthetic appeal rather than taste. Despite their little bitterness, they are often used as a garnish. They resemble giant flowers more than vegetables because of the way their leaves create rosettes in hues of purple, rose, and creamy white. In the horticulture industry, blooming cabbages are often referred to as types with smooth leaf edges and large, flat leaves, whereas flowering kales are kinds with serrated or fringed leaf margins. Technically, both are cabbages since genuine cabbage has leaves that form a head, while kale has leaves that form rosettes.
Kale and decorative cabbage are biennials of the chilly season. This implies that they develop their vegetative leaves in the first year and then, the following year, put up blossoms, resulting in the production of seeds before the plant perishes. These quickly expanding plants are, however, often cultivated as annuals for their colorful leaves. They are planted from nursery starts in the autumn or the early spring and then taken out of the garden after the season's display is through.
Care for Decorative Cabbage or Kale
Although they may be vulnerable to some of the same pests that afflict other types of the cabbage family, they are simple plants to cultivate in the majority of sunny regions. If you attempt to grow them in the heat of summer, you may be dissatisfied by how quickly they bolt and go to seed since they favor cool-weather conditions. If they are exposed to chilly, even frigid circumstances, they will produce their most stunning hue.
Light
These plants like growing in full sunlight. However, midday shade is best when cultivated in warmer areas.
These plants thrive in loamy, organically rich soil that drains well. The ideal soil pH range for both cabbage and kale is between 5.5 and 6.5.
Water
Water the plants often; they want continuously damp but not saturated soil. It's time to water if the top inch of soil is dry. You probably won't need to water anything at all if your climate has consistent rainfall. But if there is a dry period, be ready to provide more water. For these plants, 1 inch of water (from irrigation or rainfall) is ideal, but try to avoid overwatering.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Kale and ornamental cabbage need a good cold from a frost in order to fully develop their hues. They may persist all winter long, although the weather greatly affects how they look. They will flee if it is hot and there is a lot of sunlight (send up a flower stalk and go to seed). Additionally, if it's really rainy and stormy, the plants will deteriorate fast. As long as the temperature is more than 5 degrees Fahrenheit, they can endure. A sudden change in temperature, however, may harm or even kill plants.
These plants normally don't have a problem with humidity. But if the air is stagnant and the weather is moist, plants may get infected with fungus, which often manifests as patches on the leaves. 1
Fertilizer
Use a balanced fertilizer only at planting time to fertilize ornamental kale and cabbage. Avoid fertilizing them while they are still developing to prevent color loss and legginess.
Types of Kale and Cabbage for Decoration
There isn't a lot of diversity available unless you are producing decorative cabbage and kale for a living. The majority of seed packs simply say "ornamental cabbage." Therefore, it is advisable to concentrate on a color scheme that you find appealing. Flowering kale varieties may be categorized as either having "feather-leaved cultivars" or "fringed-leaved cultivars" (those with ruffled leaves) (those with finely serrated leaves).
Several well-liked types include:
"Chidori" decorative kale has leaves that are deep magenta, milky white, or purple and has highly curled leaf margins.
The 'Color Up' decorative cabbage is upright-growing, with green leaves that have white, pink, or fuchsia cores.
The decorative cabbage variety "Osaka" features broad, smooth leaves with pink, red, or white centers. Normally, the plant doesn't grow much.
'Peacock' decorative kale: With loose growth and sharply serrated leaves in shades of red, purple, or white, this plant resembles its food kale relatives more.
The flattened form of the decorative cabbage from the "Pigeon" series features a red or white core.
Growing Ornamental Kale and Cabbage
The second season, when these biennial plants blossom and set seed, is often when they are abandoned. However, if you do let them stay so they may generate seeds, you can harvest the seeds from the fading flower heads and replant them at the right planting time. The seeds may be frozen to keep them fresh for subsequent sowing.
How to Grow Kale and Cabbage From Seeds for Decoration
About eight weeks before to the final anticipated date of frost, cabbage or kale seeds should be planted inside for spring growth. Start the seeds for the autumn show around July 1 and transplant the seedlings into the garden in the middle of August.
Start the seeds inside in little pots with a seed-starting mixture inside. The seeds should be sown in the soil at a depth of approximately 1/4 inch in a light area with a temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The potted seedlings may be put outside after the final spring frost, or in mid to late August for fall/winter display. The seedlings will emerge in 10 to 21 days.
Planting and replanting decorative kale and cabbage
Ornamental kale or cabbages sometimes seem more natural when planted in pots as opposed to being dispersed around a garden if you just want one or two plants. Similar to how potted pansies are used in the spring and potted chrysanthemums in the autumn, they may make lovely seasonal potted plants.
Use an all-purpose potting mix and a container with plenty of drainage holes. You usually won't need to bother about repotting nursery plants into a larger container since they probably won't become much bigger than they are when you obtain them.
Overwintering
Kale and ornamental cabbages are often not permitted to overwinter since, when they put up flower stalks in their second year, these biennial plants become fairly unsightly. However, because the leaf rosettes stay lovely until repeatedly strong frosts ultimately force them to wilt, the majority of gardeners will keep them in place far throughout the winter.
Typical Pests and Plant Illnesses
Ornamental cabbages and kale are very vulnerable to cabbage worms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs, and aphids, much like many culinary plants in the Brassica genus.
Many of these pests may be removed with hard water sprays. These pests may be controlled using a range of pesticide dusts or horticultural oils made for crops. Kale and cabbage grown in pots may be more resistant to pests and illnesses than those grown in the ground.
Leaf spots, blackleg, black rot, and yellows are examples of common disease issues.
1 When the weather is moist, they are most likely to happen.
Common Issues With Kale and Ornamental Cabbage
Although they are employed as ornamentals, these plants are really vegetables and are thus prone to many common vegetable illnesses and animals that like eating food. You can notice the following significant issues:
Leaves with Holes
The many feeding insects that adore all Brassicaceae family members probably definitely caused this, at least in part. Kale and cabbages are a favorite food of cabbage worms, many other caterpillars, snails, and aphids. Since these plants are often not eaten, you may use more chemicals to manage the pests by using a range of insecticidal soaps or chemical sprays.
Leaves with Black or Yellow Spots
In most cases, spots on leaves rather than holes indicate a bacterial or fungal illness. In wet weather, they are more prone to occur. Keeping proper air circulation might lessen the risk of contracting certain illnesses. If used early enough, fungicides may aid in the treatment of fungal illnesses.
There are ugly tall stalks.
Bolting, or going to bloom, is the abrupt appearance of a sparse and quite unattractive stem on otherwise beautiful cabbage or kale. Its time as an attractive plant is now finished, but if you wish to collect the seeds to start new plants, you may let it grow further.
Kale and decorative cabbage are biennials of the chilly season. This implies that they develop their vegetative leaves in the first year and then, the following year, put up blossoms, resulting in the production of seeds before the plant perishes. These quickly expanding plants are, however, often cultivated as annuals for their colorful leaves. They are planted from nursery starts in the autumn or the early spring and then taken out of the garden after the season's display is through.
Care for Decorative Cabbage or Kale
Although they may be vulnerable to some of the same pests that afflict other types of the cabbage family, they are simple plants to cultivate in the majority of sunny regions. If you attempt to grow them in the heat of summer, you may be dissatisfied by how quickly they bolt and go to seed since they favor cool-weather conditions. If they are exposed to chilly, even frigid circumstances, they will produce their most stunning hue.
Light
These plants like growing in full sunlight. However, midday shade is best when cultivated in warmer areas.
These plants thrive in loamy, organically rich soil that drains well. The ideal soil pH range for both cabbage and kale is between 5.5 and 6.5.
Water
Water the plants often; they want continuously damp but not saturated soil. It's time to water if the top inch of soil is dry. You probably won't need to water anything at all if your climate has consistent rainfall. But if there is a dry period, be ready to provide more water. For these plants, 1 inch of water (from irrigation or rainfall) is ideal, but try to avoid overwatering.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Kale and ornamental cabbage need a good cold from a frost in order to fully develop their hues. They may persist all winter long, although the weather greatly affects how they look. They will flee if it is hot and there is a lot of sunlight (send up a flower stalk and go to seed). Additionally, if it's really rainy and stormy, the plants will deteriorate fast. As long as the temperature is more than 5 degrees Fahrenheit, they can endure. A sudden change in temperature, however, may harm or even kill plants.
These plants normally don't have a problem with humidity. But if the air is stagnant and the weather is moist, plants may get infected with fungus, which often manifests as patches on the leaves. 1
Fertilizer
Use a balanced fertilizer only at planting time to fertilize ornamental kale and cabbage. Avoid fertilizing them while they are still developing to prevent color loss and legginess.
Types of Kale and Cabbage for Decoration
There isn't a lot of diversity available unless you are producing decorative cabbage and kale for a living. The majority of seed packs simply say "ornamental cabbage." Therefore, it is advisable to concentrate on a color scheme that you find appealing. Flowering kale varieties may be categorized as either having "feather-leaved cultivars" or "fringed-leaved cultivars" (those with ruffled leaves) (those with finely serrated leaves).
Several well-liked types include:
"Chidori" decorative kale has leaves that are deep magenta, milky white, or purple and has highly curled leaf margins.
The 'Color Up' decorative cabbage is upright-growing, with green leaves that have white, pink, or fuchsia cores.
The decorative cabbage variety "Osaka" features broad, smooth leaves with pink, red, or white centers. Normally, the plant doesn't grow much.
'Peacock' decorative kale: With loose growth and sharply serrated leaves in shades of red, purple, or white, this plant resembles its food kale relatives more.
The flattened form of the decorative cabbage from the "Pigeon" series features a red or white core.
Growing Ornamental Kale and Cabbage
The second season, when these biennial plants blossom and set seed, is often when they are abandoned. However, if you do let them stay so they may generate seeds, you can harvest the seeds from the fading flower heads and replant them at the right planting time. The seeds may be frozen to keep them fresh for subsequent sowing.
How to Grow Kale and Cabbage From Seeds for Decoration
About eight weeks before to the final anticipated date of frost, cabbage or kale seeds should be planted inside for spring growth. Start the seeds for the autumn show around July 1 and transplant the seedlings into the garden in the middle of August.
Start the seeds inside in little pots with a seed-starting mixture inside. The seeds should be sown in the soil at a depth of approximately 1/4 inch in a light area with a temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The potted seedlings may be put outside after the final spring frost, or in mid to late August for fall/winter display. The seedlings will emerge in 10 to 21 days.
Planting and replanting decorative kale and cabbage
Ornamental kale or cabbages sometimes seem more natural when planted in pots as opposed to being dispersed around a garden if you just want one or two plants. Similar to how potted pansies are used in the spring and potted chrysanthemums in the autumn, they may make lovely seasonal potted plants.
Use an all-purpose potting mix and a container with plenty of drainage holes. You usually won't need to bother about repotting nursery plants into a larger container since they probably won't become much bigger than they are when you obtain them.
Overwintering
Kale and ornamental cabbages are often not permitted to overwinter since, when they put up flower stalks in their second year, these biennial plants become fairly unsightly. However, because the leaf rosettes stay lovely until repeatedly strong frosts ultimately force them to wilt, the majority of gardeners will keep them in place far throughout the winter.
Typical Pests and Plant Illnesses
Ornamental cabbages and kale are very vulnerable to cabbage worms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs, and aphids, much like many culinary plants in the Brassica genus.
Many of these pests may be removed with hard water sprays. These pests may be controlled using a range of pesticide dusts or horticultural oils made for crops. Kale and cabbage grown in pots may be more resistant to pests and illnesses than those grown in the ground.
Leaf spots, blackleg, black rot, and yellows are examples of common disease issues.
1 When the weather is moist, they are most likely to happen.
Common Issues With Kale and Ornamental Cabbage
Although they are employed as ornamentals, these plants are really vegetables and are thus prone to many common vegetable illnesses and animals that like eating food. You can notice the following significant issues:
Leaves with Holes
The many feeding insects that adore all Brassicaceae family members probably definitely caused this, at least in part. Kale and cabbages are a favorite food of cabbage worms, many other caterpillars, snails, and aphids. Since these plants are often not eaten, you may use more chemicals to manage the pests by using a range of insecticidal soaps or chemical sprays.
Leaves with Black or Yellow Spots
In most cases, spots on leaves rather than holes indicate a bacterial or fungal illness. In wet weather, they are more prone to occur. Keeping proper air circulation might lessen the risk of contracting certain illnesses. If used early enough, fungicides may aid in the treatment of fungal illnesses.
There are ugly tall stalks.
Bolting, or going to bloom, is the abrupt appearance of a sparse and quite unattractive stem on otherwise beautiful cabbage or kale. Its time as an attractive plant is now finished, but if you wish to collect the seeds to start new plants, you may let it grow further.
0
0
Article
atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
The cheeryViola genus has more than 500 distinct species, including annuals, perennials, and even some subshrubs. It has been noted that each bloom has a unique face. They are all referred to as violas together, although their unique garden varieties are more often known as pansies (Viola x wittrockiana), Johnny-jump-ups (Viola tricolor), or violets (Viola sorolia and others). Violas are a diverse group that includes both pure species types and many hybrids and cultivars in every color of the spectrum.
Most of the fast-growing kinds used as garden plants are annuals or short-lived perennials with few flowers. Many will reproduce themselves and provide you years of joy. Violas are edible flowers that make interesting salad toppings and garnishes. Additionally, they may be candied to create a frosted look or used as decorations for cakes and other sweets.
Mostly cool-season bloomers, violas: They are ideal for bridging the seasons in warmer regions where they may stay in bloom all winter long, as well as for beginning and closing the season in colder climes. Depending on your climate, you should decide when to grow violas. They are often planted in the spring in cold areas, although they may also be planted in the autumn in regions without harsh winters.
Care Viola
In nurseries in colder regions and at the end of the summer in warm climates, violas are often the first seedlings for sale. Find plants that are robust and have a lot of buds. The distance between mounding violas should be between 6 and 8 inches. Planting spaces between kinds that trail or spread should be 10 to 12 inches. Approximately 12 to 14 weeks after sowing the seeds, violas start to bloom.
Variety names "Penny" and "Sorbet" will bloom nine to ten weeks after seeding; V. tricolor (Johnny-jump-up) variations bloom around two weeks sooner than V. cornuta (horned violet). These plants will bloom continuously, but if you deadhead the wasted blooms, the blossoms will be more numerous. During the warmest parts of the summer, violas will likely fall dormant or start to die back.
Outside, the mounded plants provide a charming border for a garden or to mark a route. Both in wooded environments and in the cracks of rocky cliffs, violas thrive. Combine them with other plants that thrive in cooler climates, such as Dianthus, snapdragons, and calendula. Or, to fill the gap when the spring-flowering bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, fade, nestle violas between them.
Violas are ideal for containers because to their size, compact habit, and lengthy blooming cycle. Trailing variety look beautiful in window boxes, hanging baskets, and over the edge of other containers.
Full sun is pleasant to Light Violas, but not the heat it produces. When planting in the summer, make sure they have access to some shade during the warmest portion of the day. This isn't an issue in the mild spring weather.
The ideal medium for growing soil pansies and other violas is humusy, wet soil like a peat-based potting mix or garden soil that has been significantly treated with organic material. Violas like a somewhat acidic soil; adding peat moss to garden soil will help make it little more acidic.
Water
Water often, but let the soil dry up in between applications. While they can withstand some drought, frequent watering will help them blossom at their best.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Violas grow in moderate temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit and like the chilly springtime air. Water and mulch will lessen the impact of hot heat.
Violas may bloom all summer long with the right care, and the majority will bloom again in the autumn. Alternatively, especially in hot, southern climes, they may be dug out in the summer, replaced with another flower, and then replanted in the autumn when the temperature becomes cooler.
Fertilizer
Fill the soil with a slow-release fertilizer. To encourage an autumn bloom, fertilize in the spring and once more in the late summer.
Various Violations
Viola x wittrockiana, often known as the common garden pansy, is a hybrid with bigger, shorter-lived blooms that is typically planted as an annual in cooler climes. Flowers on the 8-inch-tall plants range in size from 2 to 3 inches, and they may be plain or patterned. There are several varieties of this viola, making it the most popular kind. In pots and baskets, it thrives.
Viola tricolor, sometimes known as Johnny-jump-up, is a tiny plant that is related to pansies genetically. As the spilled seeds grow into volunteer seedlings, some hybrid pansies will go back to becoming Johnny-jump-ups. It is often used as a filler or as a border plant in gardens.
Viola sororia, often known as the wild blue violet, is a plant that is typically considered to be an invasive weed in turf lawns and cultivated gardens unless it is specifically promoted in native woodland gardens. It is a native of forested regions and frequently makes its way there.
Viola cornuta, sometimes referred to as the tufted or horned violet, has a smaller blossom than the pansy. These are perennials that spread widely, bearing 1 1/2-inch, two-toned blooms atop a rosette of leaves that reaches a height of 6 to 10 inches.
Pruning
By pinching off fading blossoms at the base of the flower stem, you may encourage blossoming and lengthen the flowering season. Cut lanky or overgrown plants down to a height of 3 to 4 inches to help them recover.
Viola Seed Growing Instructions
It's simple to grow violas from seeds. Although they are more than eager to self-seed all over your garden, chilly conditions may cause the volunteers to blossom much later in the season. The technique is quite simple if you want to start your own inside. 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting, start the seed. Although mature violas may endure brief periods of chilly weather, fresh transplants may suffer harm. Gardeners in warm climates who transplant in the autumn should start their seeds in the middle of the summer.
Sterilized potting mix should be poured into tiny pots or flats to approximately 1/4 inch below the top edge. In each cell or container, scatter two to three seeds, then gently cover with the additional moistened potting mix. Remember to thoroughly cover the viola seeds since they require darkness to grow.
Keep wet and place in a warm area (65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). A nice place is on top of the refrigerator. It should take 10 to 14 days for seeds to start germinating. Move the seeds to a window with sunlight or a grow light after they have sprouted.
You must thin the pot or cell to the strongest-looking seeds when the first true leaves develop by pinching or clipping the others at the soil line. A temperature of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit is appropriate at this time. Additionally, you may start giving your seedlings any dependable, well-balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.
When the weather and temperature are suitable for transplanting outside, start "hardening off" the seedlings by exposing them to the outdoors for longer and longer periods of time over the course of 10 to 14 days. Increase them exposure to the sun gradually, starting with one to two hours. During this stage of "hardening off," make sure the soil doesn't dry up.
You may permanently put the seedlings into the garden or into their outdoor pots after they have become used to spending whole days outside.
Growing from seeds placed directly in the garden is another option, although this method performs best in areas with a lengthy growing season. Planting areas should be carefully prepared by adding organic matter, then the soil should be loosened and seeds should be scattered. Place a thin layer of dirt on top, then thoroughly water the area. Make sure the seedbed is wet. As the seedlings grow, space them out to a distance of 6 to 8 inches, moving the extra seedlings to other places.
Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses
Keep your plants away from chilly, moist environments to prevent the growth of gray mold. Make sure your violas get enough sunlight and have proper airflow. If you see aphids, spray a vigorous stream of water on the plants to remove them, or, for more serious issues, treat them with insecticidal soap.
Methods for Making Violets Bloom
With the exception of the warmest weeks, violas bloom readily and during the most of the spring and summer. To keep yours flowering, prune your plants in late summer to make way for fall blossoms, deadhead flowers as they fade, and feed sparingly once a month throughout the growth season.
Common Violation Issues
Even though violas are often among the simplest plants to cultivate in your yard, you may sometimes encounter minor issues that you may easily resolve.
Blotches of brown on the leaves
Numerous fungi-related diseases, including leaf spot and anthracnose, may kill violas. The damaged leaves may be cut off with a clean garden shear, and the viola can be treated with a fungicide to fix everything.
drooping flowers or leaves
Numerous factors, including an abundance or shortage of water, as well as congestion, may cause this. Once you identify the cause, this issue is simple to fix. If there is a watering issue, insert your finger into the soil to see if it is too dry or too damp and make the necessary adjustments. Replant your violas with greater space between the plants if it seems that they require it for breathing space.
Most of the fast-growing kinds used as garden plants are annuals or short-lived perennials with few flowers. Many will reproduce themselves and provide you years of joy. Violas are edible flowers that make interesting salad toppings and garnishes. Additionally, they may be candied to create a frosted look or used as decorations for cakes and other sweets.
Mostly cool-season bloomers, violas: They are ideal for bridging the seasons in warmer regions where they may stay in bloom all winter long, as well as for beginning and closing the season in colder climes. Depending on your climate, you should decide when to grow violas. They are often planted in the spring in cold areas, although they may also be planted in the autumn in regions without harsh winters.
Care Viola
In nurseries in colder regions and at the end of the summer in warm climates, violas are often the first seedlings for sale. Find plants that are robust and have a lot of buds. The distance between mounding violas should be between 6 and 8 inches. Planting spaces between kinds that trail or spread should be 10 to 12 inches. Approximately 12 to 14 weeks after sowing the seeds, violas start to bloom.
Variety names "Penny" and "Sorbet" will bloom nine to ten weeks after seeding; V. tricolor (Johnny-jump-up) variations bloom around two weeks sooner than V. cornuta (horned violet). These plants will bloom continuously, but if you deadhead the wasted blooms, the blossoms will be more numerous. During the warmest parts of the summer, violas will likely fall dormant or start to die back.
Outside, the mounded plants provide a charming border for a garden or to mark a route. Both in wooded environments and in the cracks of rocky cliffs, violas thrive. Combine them with other plants that thrive in cooler climates, such as Dianthus, snapdragons, and calendula. Or, to fill the gap when the spring-flowering bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, fade, nestle violas between them.
Violas are ideal for containers because to their size, compact habit, and lengthy blooming cycle. Trailing variety look beautiful in window boxes, hanging baskets, and over the edge of other containers.
Full sun is pleasant to Light Violas, but not the heat it produces. When planting in the summer, make sure they have access to some shade during the warmest portion of the day. This isn't an issue in the mild spring weather.
The ideal medium for growing soil pansies and other violas is humusy, wet soil like a peat-based potting mix or garden soil that has been significantly treated with organic material. Violas like a somewhat acidic soil; adding peat moss to garden soil will help make it little more acidic.
Water
Water often, but let the soil dry up in between applications. While they can withstand some drought, frequent watering will help them blossom at their best.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
Violas grow in moderate temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit and like the chilly springtime air. Water and mulch will lessen the impact of hot heat.
Violas may bloom all summer long with the right care, and the majority will bloom again in the autumn. Alternatively, especially in hot, southern climes, they may be dug out in the summer, replaced with another flower, and then replanted in the autumn when the temperature becomes cooler.
Fertilizer
Fill the soil with a slow-release fertilizer. To encourage an autumn bloom, fertilize in the spring and once more in the late summer.
Various Violations
Viola x wittrockiana, often known as the common garden pansy, is a hybrid with bigger, shorter-lived blooms that is typically planted as an annual in cooler climes. Flowers on the 8-inch-tall plants range in size from 2 to 3 inches, and they may be plain or patterned. There are several varieties of this viola, making it the most popular kind. In pots and baskets, it thrives.
Viola tricolor, sometimes known as Johnny-jump-up, is a tiny plant that is related to pansies genetically. As the spilled seeds grow into volunteer seedlings, some hybrid pansies will go back to becoming Johnny-jump-ups. It is often used as a filler or as a border plant in gardens.
Viola sororia, often known as the wild blue violet, is a plant that is typically considered to be an invasive weed in turf lawns and cultivated gardens unless it is specifically promoted in native woodland gardens. It is a native of forested regions and frequently makes its way there.
Viola cornuta, sometimes referred to as the tufted or horned violet, has a smaller blossom than the pansy. These are perennials that spread widely, bearing 1 1/2-inch, two-toned blooms atop a rosette of leaves that reaches a height of 6 to 10 inches.
Pruning
By pinching off fading blossoms at the base of the flower stem, you may encourage blossoming and lengthen the flowering season. Cut lanky or overgrown plants down to a height of 3 to 4 inches to help them recover.
Viola Seed Growing Instructions
It's simple to grow violas from seeds. Although they are more than eager to self-seed all over your garden, chilly conditions may cause the volunteers to blossom much later in the season. The technique is quite simple if you want to start your own inside. 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting, start the seed. Although mature violas may endure brief periods of chilly weather, fresh transplants may suffer harm. Gardeners in warm climates who transplant in the autumn should start their seeds in the middle of the summer.
Sterilized potting mix should be poured into tiny pots or flats to approximately 1/4 inch below the top edge. In each cell or container, scatter two to three seeds, then gently cover with the additional moistened potting mix. Remember to thoroughly cover the viola seeds since they require darkness to grow.
Keep wet and place in a warm area (65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). A nice place is on top of the refrigerator. It should take 10 to 14 days for seeds to start germinating. Move the seeds to a window with sunlight or a grow light after they have sprouted.
You must thin the pot or cell to the strongest-looking seeds when the first true leaves develop by pinching or clipping the others at the soil line. A temperature of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit is appropriate at this time. Additionally, you may start giving your seedlings any dependable, well-balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.
When the weather and temperature are suitable for transplanting outside, start "hardening off" the seedlings by exposing them to the outdoors for longer and longer periods of time over the course of 10 to 14 days. Increase them exposure to the sun gradually, starting with one to two hours. During this stage of "hardening off," make sure the soil doesn't dry up.
You may permanently put the seedlings into the garden or into their outdoor pots after they have become used to spending whole days outside.
Growing from seeds placed directly in the garden is another option, although this method performs best in areas with a lengthy growing season. Planting areas should be carefully prepared by adding organic matter, then the soil should be loosened and seeds should be scattered. Place a thin layer of dirt on top, then thoroughly water the area. Make sure the seedbed is wet. As the seedlings grow, space them out to a distance of 6 to 8 inches, moving the extra seedlings to other places.
Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses
Keep your plants away from chilly, moist environments to prevent the growth of gray mold. Make sure your violas get enough sunlight and have proper airflow. If you see aphids, spray a vigorous stream of water on the plants to remove them, or, for more serious issues, treat them with insecticidal soap.
Methods for Making Violets Bloom
With the exception of the warmest weeks, violas bloom readily and during the most of the spring and summer. To keep yours flowering, prune your plants in late summer to make way for fall blossoms, deadhead flowers as they fade, and feed sparingly once a month throughout the growth season.
Common Violation Issues
Even though violas are often among the simplest plants to cultivate in your yard, you may sometimes encounter minor issues that you may easily resolve.
Blotches of brown on the leaves
Numerous fungi-related diseases, including leaf spot and anthracnose, may kill violas. The damaged leaves may be cut off with a clean garden shear, and the viola can be treated with a fungicide to fix everything.
drooping flowers or leaves
Numerous factors, including an abundance or shortage of water, as well as congestion, may cause this. Once you identify the cause, this issue is simple to fix. If there is a watering issue, insert your finger into the soil to see if it is too dry or too damp and make the necessary adjustments. Replant your violas with greater space between the plants if it seems that they require it for breathing space.
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Growing
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mailipod5: how much did you buy?
