Article
atastybellpepper
2022-07-04
New orchid growers quickly learn that good orchids cannot thrive in ordinary potting soil. Most orchids really grow in the air; the medium is only there to provide the roots with something to adhere to since it is too thick and doesn't drain well enough. In addition, the variety of orchid potting material options might be perplexing.
Many orchid cultivars may thrive in a medium with only one element, while others only like certain materials. You may create your own unique orchid mix, but you must first learn about the requirements of your specific plant. Additionally, depending on the medium used, a wide range of high-quality orchid growth mixtures are available that provide various advantages.
Cost, availability, and appearance may enable you to make a more specific decision among all of these possibilities. It's wise to educate yourself on the characteristics of each kind of material to aid in your decision.
Brick pieces and paving stones
Brick fragments provide hefty orchid pots weight and stability. However, since it may be so hefty, you should go for lesser sized pieces. Because of this material's moderate water retention, the humidity around your orchids will be higher.
The bottom half of an orchid pot may also be secured with cobblestones as an anchor. Top-heavy orchids like dendrobiums can stand erect because the little, irregular pebbles are weighty. Since cobblestone won't hold onto water, you'll need assistance improving the drainage capabilities of your orchid mix.
Coconut Husk Chips with Coir
The fibrous central core that surrounds the fruit, known as coconut coir, may be used on its alone or as a component of a unique orchid combination. In order to provide orchid roots with wet but not soggy growth conditions, the long fibers collect moisture while also releasing it fast.
Coconut husk chips, a sustainable resource, are available in various sizes to suit your requirements, whether they be as a stand-alone growth media or an addition to potting soil. As a result of the chips' gradual decomposition, the roots of orchids get the most air possible. Plaques made of cocoa husk fiber, which provide a great substrate for growing orchids on mounts, are also used by many orchid gardeners.
Cork
The waterproof characteristics of cork are known to everyone who has a vintage bottle of wine. For the best orchid mix, combine water-shedding cork with water-absorbing sphagnum moss or finely chopped bark. The bigger cork chips have a lot of nooks and crannies that orchid roots may explore.
Aggregate of Expanded Clay
Some orchids are sold with potting soil that contains pebbles that resemble Cocoa Puffs cereal. If you see them, it's highly probable that the plant you bought was grown in a clay aggregate that has been extended, such as Aliflor or Hydroton Clay Pebbles.
These ceramic pebbles differ from conventional rocks in that they are porous, light, and neither acidic nor alkaline. To give the pots of your orchids a consistent look, you may use them as a mulch on all of them, combine them with other growth medium, or use them alone.
Rock of Lava
This inorganic growth media is often used with orchids brought in from Hawaii. Lava rock is an useful potting mix addition for orchids that don't want to have their roots disturbed since, like other rock growth medium, it won't decompose. Lava rock holds onto water, which raises the humidity level for your orchids.
Perlite
Perlite, commonly referred to as sponge rock, is made when volcanic glass is heated to a high temperature. Perlite provides great water retention and aeration qualities while without providing any nutrients to orchid plants. Due to the fact that most nurseries and garden stores have it on hand as a general soil supplement, it is also a fairly simple media to locate.
Pumice
Pumice The granite is very porous and may store as much water as 50% of its weight. Additionally, because of its modest weight, your plant won't be burdened by it.
Stone Wool
The cotton-like chalk and basalt fibers known as rock wool, sometimes written rockwool, may be purchased online or at higher-end gardening supply shops. Its major benefit is that it won't degrade in your orchid potting mix. However, you will need to add some organic material, such as bark or peat moss, to balance the alkalinity of the rock wool cubes.
Peeled bark
cypress, cedar, and fir tree bark that has been shredded. It is one of the most often used materials in orchid pots, particularly those that are offered to novices at flower stores and nurseries.
As the bark decomposes, it will acidify your orchid mix. It is also liked for its organic appearance and lovely scent. But once a year repotting may be necessary for orchids grown in a bark media.
Sphagnum moss Sphagnum moss, which is weed- and pathogen-free, keeps the soil around your orchid roots wet. However, it won't become soggy, which is why it's a popular option. For the greatest results, you should rehydrate the moss (which is sometimes supplied in compacted bricks) and place it loosely into the orchid planter.
Growing Styrofoam Orchids in a medium made of Styrofoam may be successful if they like dry times. Simple Styrofoam peanuts may function as a growth medium and are an environmentally good choice since they allow you to recycle the usual packaging material. Additionally, you may purchase specialized Styrofoam pellets like Aerolite that are created especially for epiphytic plants like orchids.
Vermiculite
Several potting soil additions are sold at garden centers, and vermiculite is often among them. It often appears as gravel-sized particles in many pre-made potting soil mixtures.
This pale brown mineral is effective in retaining nutrients and water. Additionally, vermiculite aids in aerating potting soil. Sphagnum moss and it work well together to make a light, moisture-retentive orchid mix.
Many orchid cultivars may thrive in a medium with only one element, while others only like certain materials. You may create your own unique orchid mix, but you must first learn about the requirements of your specific plant. Additionally, depending on the medium used, a wide range of high-quality orchid growth mixtures are available that provide various advantages.
Cost, availability, and appearance may enable you to make a more specific decision among all of these possibilities. It's wise to educate yourself on the characteristics of each kind of material to aid in your decision.
Brick pieces and paving stones
Brick fragments provide hefty orchid pots weight and stability. However, since it may be so hefty, you should go for lesser sized pieces. Because of this material's moderate water retention, the humidity around your orchids will be higher.
The bottom half of an orchid pot may also be secured with cobblestones as an anchor. Top-heavy orchids like dendrobiums can stand erect because the little, irregular pebbles are weighty. Since cobblestone won't hold onto water, you'll need assistance improving the drainage capabilities of your orchid mix.
Coconut Husk Chips with Coir
The fibrous central core that surrounds the fruit, known as coconut coir, may be used on its alone or as a component of a unique orchid combination. In order to provide orchid roots with wet but not soggy growth conditions, the long fibers collect moisture while also releasing it fast.
Coconut husk chips, a sustainable resource, are available in various sizes to suit your requirements, whether they be as a stand-alone growth media or an addition to potting soil. As a result of the chips' gradual decomposition, the roots of orchids get the most air possible. Plaques made of cocoa husk fiber, which provide a great substrate for growing orchids on mounts, are also used by many orchid gardeners.
Cork
The waterproof characteristics of cork are known to everyone who has a vintage bottle of wine. For the best orchid mix, combine water-shedding cork with water-absorbing sphagnum moss or finely chopped bark. The bigger cork chips have a lot of nooks and crannies that orchid roots may explore.
Aggregate of Expanded Clay
Some orchids are sold with potting soil that contains pebbles that resemble Cocoa Puffs cereal. If you see them, it's highly probable that the plant you bought was grown in a clay aggregate that has been extended, such as Aliflor or Hydroton Clay Pebbles.
These ceramic pebbles differ from conventional rocks in that they are porous, light, and neither acidic nor alkaline. To give the pots of your orchids a consistent look, you may use them as a mulch on all of them, combine them with other growth medium, or use them alone.
Rock of Lava
This inorganic growth media is often used with orchids brought in from Hawaii. Lava rock is an useful potting mix addition for orchids that don't want to have their roots disturbed since, like other rock growth medium, it won't decompose. Lava rock holds onto water, which raises the humidity level for your orchids.
Perlite
Perlite, commonly referred to as sponge rock, is made when volcanic glass is heated to a high temperature. Perlite provides great water retention and aeration qualities while without providing any nutrients to orchid plants. Due to the fact that most nurseries and garden stores have it on hand as a general soil supplement, it is also a fairly simple media to locate.
Pumice
Pumice The granite is very porous and may store as much water as 50% of its weight. Additionally, because of its modest weight, your plant won't be burdened by it.
Stone Wool
The cotton-like chalk and basalt fibers known as rock wool, sometimes written rockwool, may be purchased online or at higher-end gardening supply shops. Its major benefit is that it won't degrade in your orchid potting mix. However, you will need to add some organic material, such as bark or peat moss, to balance the alkalinity of the rock wool cubes.
Peeled bark
cypress, cedar, and fir tree bark that has been shredded. It is one of the most often used materials in orchid pots, particularly those that are offered to novices at flower stores and nurseries.
As the bark decomposes, it will acidify your orchid mix. It is also liked for its organic appearance and lovely scent. But once a year repotting may be necessary for orchids grown in a bark media.
Sphagnum moss Sphagnum moss, which is weed- and pathogen-free, keeps the soil around your orchid roots wet. However, it won't become soggy, which is why it's a popular option. For the greatest results, you should rehydrate the moss (which is sometimes supplied in compacted bricks) and place it loosely into the orchid planter.
Growing Styrofoam Orchids in a medium made of Styrofoam may be successful if they like dry times. Simple Styrofoam peanuts may function as a growth medium and are an environmentally good choice since they allow you to recycle the usual packaging material. Additionally, you may purchase specialized Styrofoam pellets like Aerolite that are created especially for epiphytic plants like orchids.
Vermiculite
Several potting soil additions are sold at garden centers, and vermiculite is often among them. It often appears as gravel-sized particles in many pre-made potting soil mixtures.
This pale brown mineral is effective in retaining nutrients and water. Additionally, vermiculite aids in aerating potting soil. Sphagnum moss and it work well together to make a light, moisture-retentive orchid mix.
0
0
Article
atastybellpepper
2022-06-29
An orchid's bloom is a pleasant task and a certain indication of a healthy plant. However, failure to bloom is merely one indicator that the orchid is in trouble. Paying attention to the plant's development and leaves when it is not in bloom will enable you to see issues as they arise and take the required actions to address them. Here are some suggestions to assist you in restoring your sick orchid to health.
My Orchid Won't Bloom: Why?
Most orchid foliage is not especially appealing, unless you like waxy, spathe-like leaves, protruding stems, and sproingy air roots. The blossoms of approximately 30,000 species of orchids symbolize the beautiful art of the plant world, ranging from vibrant dancing butterflies to baby booties. 1 The good news is that the majority of orchids bloom for up to three months on average, and some species even bloom twice a year. Therefore, you probably need to change your care routine if your orchid hasn't bloomed at least once a year but the leaves are reproducing, have nice color, and are free of pests and blemishes.
Regular Maintenance Is Crucial
Orchids may be found growing in a variety of environments worldwide, including woods, alpine rainforests, and tropical jungles. Find out where your orchid normally grows and try to replicate the environment there as precisely as you can. Orchids need the same care as other flowering plants, yet they have different demands. Here are some things to think about:
Temperature: Should you supply both a warm and a chilly time for your species of orchids, or does it need continuously warm temperatures? For many species to bloom, the nighttime temperature must be lower. Bud drop may result from excessive temperature variation. Place the orchid somewhere where the temperature is more stable.
The orchid can absorb moisture from the air via its leaf and roots, and this is known as humidity (in epiphytic species). If you decide on this kind of orchid, misting may be necessary to promote bloom. Use a spray bottle to softly sprinkle the air around the plants if your mister is set up to avoid soaking the foliage. A layer of wet stones underneath your plant might also assist to increase humidity. When your orchid is blooming, avoid misting.
For healthy foliage and blooms, does your orchid prefer direct sunlight or indirect light? Placing your plant in the right kind of light might be the difference between a stunning annual or twice-yearly bloom time and uninteresting greens. Review the plant's normal development and rest intervals and keep your orchid in complete darkness at night if it won't bloom.
Water: After blooming, the majority of orchids enter a period of hibernation during which their water requirements are lowered. However, depending on the variety of orchid, watering needs may vary greatly from the first evidence of new growth (often a new leaf) until bloom. Your plant won't stay in optimal condition if you just water it once a week all year long. The watering schedule must be changed to accommodate the particular requirements of the orchid you are raising. Withhold water and repot the orchid in dry potting soil if the leaves start to wilt and the growth at the base of the plant turns mushy.
Fertilizer: Because they consume a lot of food, orchids do best in an atmosphere with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The majority of growth medium for these plants won't have enough nutrients, thus adding orchid food or a balanced fertilizer has to be a regular part of maintenance. Water soluble orchid feeding is practical and may be added to your suggested watering regimen. This works well since watering is often decreased during the orchid's dormant season, which is also when fertilizer should be avoided throughout the plant's yearly cycle. Overfertilization is seldom a concern, but for certain species, it's advised to cut the fertilizer's strength in half to a quarter.
Determine and address foliage issues
Like all other flowering plants, orchids have a blooming phase. However, when they aren't in bloom, we turn to the leaves to spot and fix issues. You may need to adjust your care plan if your orchid isn't generating new leaves or if the leaves seem sickly despite your regular maintenance routine. Alternatively, the issue might be a disease or a pest infestation.
No New Leaves Are Developing
Most orchids will enter a period of dormancy after bloom during which no new growth will be seen. When there are prolonged periods of insufficient light in the winter, new growth might also stall or cease. Keep the potting material equally wet during this time, cut down on water, and refrain from fertilizer. This is a normal stage of an orchid's growth cycle.
Leaves Fall Off and Turn Yellow
With orchids, the loss of the bottom-most leaves happens naturally. Older leaves will ultimately turn yellow and fall off as new leaves emerge. Overexposure to sunshine or water may also cause leaves to become yellow. If so, relocate the plant to a cool location and stop watering it for a few weeks.
Plant disease in orchids
The illnesses caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses may affect orchids. Various viruses affect different orchid species in different ways. The cattleya orchid's leaves develop pitting due to the Cymbidium mosaic virus. Other viruses induce aberrant patterning in shades of yellow and brown as well as bright and dark stripes on the leaves. If the plant does manage to blossom, the flowers may be brittle and fleeting in nature. Check the plant at an agricultural experiment station if you think it could be infected with a virus. Sadly, there is no treatment for orchid viruses. Get rid of the sick plant and disinfect the container before using it again to prevent spreading the infection to other plants in your collection.
Infections caused by bacteria and fungi include brown rot, which appears as a pale brown spot on a leaf and swiftly spreads throughout the plant. Sunken brown, yellow, or reddish dots or streaks are the result of bacterial leaf spot on leaves. These illnesses, which often arise from excessive humidity, cause the leaf tissues to collapse and give the impression of being saturated in water. When you water your orchids in the morning, the foliage has time to dry before the temperature drops at night. Remove the infected sections of the orchid, isolate it right away, and change the potting material if you suspect an infection. While the plant is healing, you may apply a fungicide to the wounds and then reduce water and humidity. Before repotting the orchid, wash the pot with a solution of mild soap and water, and be careful to sanitize the equipment to prevent infection from spreading to neighboring plants.
Plant Pests
Weevils, sowbugs, springtails, snails, scale, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites are a few of the nuisance insects. Look for leaves that seem to have been chewed on or those have what seems to be white powder on the undersides. Light infestations may often be brushed off with soap and water or eliminated by hand. For severe infestations, try neem oil, hydrogen peroxide, or isopropyl alcohol. However, if there are large populations of small insects like thrips and spider mites, a pesticide treatment may be necessary.
My Orchid Won't Bloom: Why?
Most orchid foliage is not especially appealing, unless you like waxy, spathe-like leaves, protruding stems, and sproingy air roots. The blossoms of approximately 30,000 species of orchids symbolize the beautiful art of the plant world, ranging from vibrant dancing butterflies to baby booties. 1 The good news is that the majority of orchids bloom for up to three months on average, and some species even bloom twice a year. Therefore, you probably need to change your care routine if your orchid hasn't bloomed at least once a year but the leaves are reproducing, have nice color, and are free of pests and blemishes.
Regular Maintenance Is Crucial
Orchids may be found growing in a variety of environments worldwide, including woods, alpine rainforests, and tropical jungles. Find out where your orchid normally grows and try to replicate the environment there as precisely as you can. Orchids need the same care as other flowering plants, yet they have different demands. Here are some things to think about:
Temperature: Should you supply both a warm and a chilly time for your species of orchids, or does it need continuously warm temperatures? For many species to bloom, the nighttime temperature must be lower. Bud drop may result from excessive temperature variation. Place the orchid somewhere where the temperature is more stable.
The orchid can absorb moisture from the air via its leaf and roots, and this is known as humidity (in epiphytic species). If you decide on this kind of orchid, misting may be necessary to promote bloom. Use a spray bottle to softly sprinkle the air around the plants if your mister is set up to avoid soaking the foliage. A layer of wet stones underneath your plant might also assist to increase humidity. When your orchid is blooming, avoid misting.
For healthy foliage and blooms, does your orchid prefer direct sunlight or indirect light? Placing your plant in the right kind of light might be the difference between a stunning annual or twice-yearly bloom time and uninteresting greens. Review the plant's normal development and rest intervals and keep your orchid in complete darkness at night if it won't bloom.
Water: After blooming, the majority of orchids enter a period of hibernation during which their water requirements are lowered. However, depending on the variety of orchid, watering needs may vary greatly from the first evidence of new growth (often a new leaf) until bloom. Your plant won't stay in optimal condition if you just water it once a week all year long. The watering schedule must be changed to accommodate the particular requirements of the orchid you are raising. Withhold water and repot the orchid in dry potting soil if the leaves start to wilt and the growth at the base of the plant turns mushy.
Fertilizer: Because they consume a lot of food, orchids do best in an atmosphere with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The majority of growth medium for these plants won't have enough nutrients, thus adding orchid food or a balanced fertilizer has to be a regular part of maintenance. Water soluble orchid feeding is practical and may be added to your suggested watering regimen. This works well since watering is often decreased during the orchid's dormant season, which is also when fertilizer should be avoided throughout the plant's yearly cycle. Overfertilization is seldom a concern, but for certain species, it's advised to cut the fertilizer's strength in half to a quarter.
Determine and address foliage issues
Like all other flowering plants, orchids have a blooming phase. However, when they aren't in bloom, we turn to the leaves to spot and fix issues. You may need to adjust your care plan if your orchid isn't generating new leaves or if the leaves seem sickly despite your regular maintenance routine. Alternatively, the issue might be a disease or a pest infestation.
No New Leaves Are Developing
Most orchids will enter a period of dormancy after bloom during which no new growth will be seen. When there are prolonged periods of insufficient light in the winter, new growth might also stall or cease. Keep the potting material equally wet during this time, cut down on water, and refrain from fertilizer. This is a normal stage of an orchid's growth cycle.
Leaves Fall Off and Turn Yellow
With orchids, the loss of the bottom-most leaves happens naturally. Older leaves will ultimately turn yellow and fall off as new leaves emerge. Overexposure to sunshine or water may also cause leaves to become yellow. If so, relocate the plant to a cool location and stop watering it for a few weeks.
Plant disease in orchids
The illnesses caused by bacteria, fungi, and viruses may affect orchids. Various viruses affect different orchid species in different ways. The cattleya orchid's leaves develop pitting due to the Cymbidium mosaic virus. Other viruses induce aberrant patterning in shades of yellow and brown as well as bright and dark stripes on the leaves. If the plant does manage to blossom, the flowers may be brittle and fleeting in nature. Check the plant at an agricultural experiment station if you think it could be infected with a virus. Sadly, there is no treatment for orchid viruses. Get rid of the sick plant and disinfect the container before using it again to prevent spreading the infection to other plants in your collection.
Infections caused by bacteria and fungi include brown rot, which appears as a pale brown spot on a leaf and swiftly spreads throughout the plant. Sunken brown, yellow, or reddish dots or streaks are the result of bacterial leaf spot on leaves. These illnesses, which often arise from excessive humidity, cause the leaf tissues to collapse and give the impression of being saturated in water. When you water your orchids in the morning, the foliage has time to dry before the temperature drops at night. Remove the infected sections of the orchid, isolate it right away, and change the potting material if you suspect an infection. While the plant is healing, you may apply a fungicide to the wounds and then reduce water and humidity. Before repotting the orchid, wash the pot with a solution of mild soap and water, and be careful to sanitize the equipment to prevent infection from spreading to neighboring plants.
Plant Pests
Weevils, sowbugs, springtails, snails, scale, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites are a few of the nuisance insects. Look for leaves that seem to have been chewed on or those have what seems to be white powder on the undersides. Light infestations may often be brushed off with soap and water or eliminated by hand. For severe infestations, try neem oil, hydrogen peroxide, or isopropyl alcohol. However, if there are large populations of small insects like thrips and spider mites, a pesticide treatment may be necessary.
0
0
Help
kensong
2018-05-31
Okay, this is my first Phalenopsis (moth orchid). This is about 2 weeks after I cut off its flower stalks after they dropped. Then I repotted. Is this a new leaf I see? Why is it brown red?
0
0
Fion: Because this is new leaf, not all new leaves of plants are tender green.
sunnyzou: do not worry. New leaves are usually like this.
Growing
kensong
2018-05-12
Went for a two week vacation and left this moth orchid in my office to be cared for. Came back to this 😥
1
0
shirly mei: The leaves still look pretty healthy. my flowers has all died now too. Just cut the spike cuz it's all brown and wait for another one to grow
meriunkat: That's why I don't trust anyone else with my plants 😅
